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Saturday, May 03, 2014

Day Five: Temple Mount, City of David, Hezekiah's Tunnels, Pool of Siloam, Upper Room, & Caiaphas' House

Whew!  Even that title makes me overwhelmed at the idea of writing about the significance of this day.  I'll just warn you:  this day held some of my very favorite moments of the entire trip.  So, this could be a doozy of a post.

Actually, I'm going to say a couple of things first before I start the play-by-play.

1)  I need some new words to use in place of "amazing" and "incredible".  I just can't seem to use the right words to convey what's in my head and heart.  I need a thesaurus for "standing-where-Jesus-stood" descriptive words.

2)  I have been studying Ephesians and a book about spiritual warfare ("The Full Armor of God") for the last few months...and I believe it is REAL.  The spiritual world around us may be unseen, but it is not inactive.  There are forces of good and evil constantly battling for our attention, our future, our souls.  Good vs. Evil.  God vs. satan.  And, I believe if we KNEW what kind of battle was raging, we would be absolutely unable to sit still and would do anything to "suit up" in the armor that we know would strengthen us as we share the hope of victory with others.

3)  Jerusalem is a city where I could tangibly feel this struggle between good and evil.  In a physical sense from the boundaries that divide the city and the evidence of past conflict that surrounds you (like these walls full of bullet holes from 1967!).
But also in the spiritual sense.

Since this is a public blog, I get a little sensitive about what all I freely write about this.  I will talk in generalities of the opposing religious views that divide the city and pierce the very places that Jesus taught and loved and died.  But I'm hoping that all who read this understand what I mean.  I could feel the darkness at times...and I could see the light at others.  I have struggled to write this post because that's how poignant the battle was for me on this day.

But, here I go with an attempt at describing day five.

It was early morning when we left our hotel.  We knew we were heading to the temple steps first. But, I didn't know how significant these steps would be.  These are the actual steps of the temple, buried under ruins for years and years, but recently uncovered completely intact.
Do you know what might have happened on these very stairs?  The conversations, the healings, the teachings, the temple-clearing...even as I type, my eyes fill with tears.  Oh, to just have a glimpse into the people who walked up and down on these very stones.  And, the Savior who came to this very place, to fulfill the promises those same people held onto.
We sat on the temple steps and waited for the worship to begin.
I know I've already said this, but I love this man pictured above for the way he leads me.

And I love (in a different kind of way!) these men below for the way they led us both this week:
Max began with an introduction that felt like he was reading my thoughts from the night before.  After touring the tunnels under the temple, and watching so many people pray with their faces on these walls, I was torn between truly wanting to grasp the Holiness of God by being in the presence of His temple mount, and wanting to rejoice because we no longer have to seek His Presence in one single place on earth.
Max's thoughts summed up this inner struggle perfectly.  "This is the Lord's Temple!  Where He dwells, where Jesus taught and walked.  But, then, He tore the VEIL!  He is now living IN US!"

Max pointed to the temple above us and said "Behold, the temple of the Lord!" and then pointed directly at all of us and repeated, "Behold, the temple of the Lord!" 
AMEN and AMEN.

Steven and Caleb led us in singing "On Christ the Solid Rock I Stand" and "You're the God of This City".  It was beyond words.  I cried and cried as I raised my hands to Him and claimed His promises for this city, for the nations, for all of us---we WILL be delivered, and HE has won the victory.
Then, as we sat there on those steps---a physical representation of the hope of Christ as a big old group of Christians, in the midst of faithful praying Jewish people just below us...
...and Muslims just above us in the mosque, things began to happen.
Max got up to share the message for the day and lead us in prayer over specific groups of people.  We prayed for the sick who was among us.  We prayed for church leaders.  We prayed for teachers of the Word.  It was a powerful time.  We had the honor and privilege of praying over our new friends sitting next to us, who lead a church in Singapore.  What amazing people they were!

Max then began to preach about Jesus, specifically about His Lordship, and the authority He had as the Son of God on earth.  He read from John 3:16, Matthew 11:27, and Hebrews 1:3, demonstrating that anything you can say about God, you can say about Jesus.  He was God Incarnate on earth.

As he shares this on a microphone in the middle of Jerusalem, a sort of moaning, wailing, chanting sound begins to be heard from an individual behind us (which we later found out came from these windows above us).  The person moaning increases in volume over the next few minutes, and although we couldn't understand the words, I could clearly understand the message.  I wouldn't know for a while if everyone around me was also aware of it. (We ended up discussing it as a group later that evening.)  But, deep in my spirit I knew in an instant this was warfare.  It was eery.  It felt dark.
Max clearly sensed it as well, and just remained on the topic of Jesus' authority over all principles of darkness, over all the earth--that He is Lord of all, and at His name, every knee will bow on heaven and on earth...
Oh, even typing about it brings back the intensity of the moment!

After a while, as Max continued to speak out against the spirit of darkness that was there---trying to distract, silence, and intimidate us---it went silent.  And, I felt like standing up and cheering!
Max went on with his next couple of points, and we all felt it.  Triumph in the name of Jesus.  Wow.  I will never ever forget it.  And, there is much more to say about it!  But, I'll just say it was a high point of my trip for sure.

God is alive and He is active.  He is calling all people unto Him.  And, He wants us all to grasp His holiness.  At the same time, we can rejoice that He empowers us to be His voice in the darkness, and His hands, and His feet on earth, bringing light to the world.

After this CRAZY COOL morning, we walked around the temple mount, marveling at the remaining walls and their beauty...and just to think that these were only the outer walls!  I can't fathom the beauty and majesty of the entire courts of the temple that are no longer there!
As we walked along the perimeter, we were able to see much of the stone debris that still remain toppled over from the destruction of the temple by the Romans in 70 A.D.

You can still see the craters in the walkways, as Jesus' prophecy of "no stone standing upon another" was fulfilled, and came alive right before our eyes.
I still can't believe we were standing here.
As we came to a corner, Naftali showed us a stone that remains, with the original Hebrew carving that says "The Place of the Trumpet".  This was the very place that the shofar would be blown by the priest, as festivals and sacrifices began.  From this place, the entire city would hear the call.
And, I LOVE that Naftali (who is actually from the tribe of Levi!) posed for us with his make-believe trumpet.
Have I mentioned how much I adore Naftali?  Because I really, really do.  I'm so thankful that Mark had the camera this day and captured me smiling as Naftali shared something with us, because it is the perfect memory of our time with him.  I don't even know what he's saying in this picture, but I guarantee it was a perfectly timed one-liner that made us laugh, followed by a deep, profound statement that made us think.  That's what it was like all day long with this man.
After walking around the southern side of the temple mount, we came to the Western Wall, also called the Wailing Wall, where the Jewish people come to pray and read scripture.  It is also tradition to write prayers, fold them up, and stuff into the cracks and crevices of the stones.  It wasn't a place I felt very comfortable taking pictures, so I don't have alot to show for the women's side. (The area is divided into men and women areas, just like the temple was.)  But, I sat and wrote prayers to leave in the cracks of the walls, as well as one prayer I carried home with me.  Although most of it will remain in my journal for my own heart, here is a portion of what I wrote as I sat there in His presence surrounded by His people.
"Father, I am surrounded by Your people, Lord.  Your women who so desperately seek Your face.  Who long to see You in this place, that You would restore what has been broken, that You would redeem this broken world, that You would conquer the evil forever and ever.  I thank You for this example of faithfulness in prayer.  May I learn to live like that.  I thank You for this Holy Place--for Your Presence here, even now.  For the faithfulness You continue to pour over us.  For Your Holiness, God.  May I truly grasp what that means and may my life reflect it just like Moses' face did!  Being here in this place makes me realize the VASTNESS of the gap---the deep chasm---that You covered for us.  Just how magnificent this sacrifice of Love is that You sent Jesus Christ as the Lamb of God.  That we no longer have to wait for Your redemption but that You offer us NOW the purity and holiness of Jesus to cover us!  To stand for us in heaven!  Father, forgive us for the way we live.  For the careless way we go about our lives without You.  For the way we worship without passion.  For the way we think of ourselves more highly than we ought--when we deserve nothing Father but destruction just like this temple.  We deserved to be heaped down like these stones.  Yet, instead, you tore the veil, and came down to us---you came near!  Jesus, bring peace to the nations.  Bring Your power here.  You alone are exalted in the Highest Place.  Thank you Jesus.  Thank you, Father, for this holy moment."

These next few pictures I didn't see until we were home from the trip.

While I was on the women's side praying, Mark had joined the other men from our bus on the men's side.  These pictures are sacred glimpses, and I'm so thankful Mark captured these moments of prayer from men of such faith.  What a blessing to be with them for these days...
And, in case you don't recognize him, Steven Curtis Chapman stands in the middle in this picture.  Melts my heart for so many reasons.
After this amazing morning at the temple, we headed through the city streets into the Jewish Quarter of the city and enjoyed seeing how the people live and carry on business.
It was such a quaint, pristine, peaceful area of the city, with children running down the paths, and people carrying bundles of groceries, pushing babies, and eating in the open market restaurants.
I loved seeing the mark of the Jewish faith everywhere you turn.  These mezuzahs were mounted on every doorstep to homes, businesses, and even the gates of the city.  Mezuzah literally means "doorpost", and contains the prayer of the Shema and the name "Shaddai", which is a name for God that means "Guardian of the Doors of Israel".
After sharing this with the girls when we got home, they decided to put a homemade mezuzah on every one of our doorposts.  I was amazed that they felt called to do that, just by seeing the way the Jewish people live through these pictures.  Precious to this mom's heart.
And all of this "daily living" occurs right amidst the ruins of the Roman influence and control hundreds of years ago!  Just amazing.
We ate lunch here and were on our own to pick what we wanted.  Mark went straight for the monogolian grill and loaded up his plate with his favorites.  I, however, went to a fresh toppings pizza place, and had the thinnest, crispiest pizza with seasonings sprinkled on top.  Oh my. And, of course, Mark found some ice cream to top it off with.  :)  Always.
It was a wonderful break from the intensity of touring, and a great time to catch our breath, sitting outside and chatting with our awesome bus family.

From lunch, we headed to the ancient City of David, which was the original city when David founded it long ago.
Here is a view of the hillside as we entered the old city.
Much of the original city is still buried, but excavations are happening constantly.  Again, these depend on who has control of the specific areas, and as we discovered on this day, the lines between cultures, races, and religious beliefs, are drawn in jagged lines all over the city.  On one street, we are in a Jewish area, under Israeli control, and then on the very opposite street, we aren't.  
We walked by the remains of the original wall that Nehemiah returned to build, after the period of Babylonian captivity, which he and the rest of the Jewish people completed in 52 days!!
This has always been one of my very favorite Bible stories (you can read my thoughts about Nehemiah HERE), so I was once again in awe as I stood before yet another archaeology find that I had dreamed about seeing.

And, can you IMAGINE being the people who just live and drive around right above this precious wall?!  Oh be still my heart.
I'm telling you, this day was full of these heart-stopping moments!
Because next we got to see the tunnels of King David's time, as well as Hezekiah's tunnels!  Another favorite of mine!!  (That is because of THESE BOOKS by Lynn Austin.  If you have never read them, stop WHATEVER you are currently reading and start this series immediately.  It will change the way you see the kings of the Bible, and especially Hezekiah, as you read a historically accurate, but fictional account of his life.  I promise.  Just do it.)

Oh, and here is her blog about touring these exact same tunnels, which she writes about in her book Pilgrimage.

These original tunnels were dug by ancient Canaanites for water access into the city.  This is the very way David entered the city and took Jerusalem for Israel---by sneaking up through the tunnels into the heart of the city, bypassing the impenetrable walls that the Canaanites thought kept them safe from invaders!
Later, these same tunnels were cut off by Hezekiah, so this very same technique could not be used as an attack on his people!  Instead, his team of workers dug secret tunnels by hand-chiseling every square inch, starting at two ends of the mountain, and meeting in the middle.  This allowed fresh water to flow inside the city walls from the natural Gihon Springs outside the city.  This protected their water supply if ever attacked.
And, they are still flowing with water up to your thigh!!
Mark and a few others toured the wet tunnels, while the rest of us went through the dry tunnels.  Both were absolutely amazing.  We were walking where history was made--and changed--forever.
(Please go order the books now.  Those last few sentences do nothing to describe the actual works of Hezekiah and the amazing story he has.  Really.)

These tunnels end at the Pool of Siloam, where the blind man was healed, and countless others were touched by Jesus.

I read a very interesting article after arriving home, about the Pool of Siloam.  This is the Pool that has been photographed for years and years, having been named as the actual remains by Queen Helena, the mother of Constantine.
However, in 2004 (Two Thousand FOUR!!! Only a few years ago!), the true pool of Siloam was discovered as construction was beginning for a water pipe.  They drilled down only to discover a series of steps.  As they called in the archaeologists, it was confirmed that the original Pool of Siloam, which takes up TWO football fields, was still intact underground!  And, the very temple steps we sat on at the beginning of this day, if they were uncovered, would reach all the way to these same steps surrounding the Pool of Siloam.  They are still there under it all as one complete set of stairs reaching all the way to the Temple Gates!
We then visited the site of the Upper Room, where the Last Supper occurred with Jesus and his disciples.  It is now a church, which has changed hands repeatedly over time.  It was first constructed as the Holy Zion Church in 390 AD, followed by a newly constructed church during the time of the Crusaders in the 1100's, and is now the shape of a church built in the 1200's, although it has also been a mosque in recent years.
Needless to say, it was a bit hard to really get in touch with the original feeling of this place.  But, it was  still a significant place to see.
We continued on to the home of Caiaphas, the High Priest during Jesus' day.  His home sat above the city, among the other wealthy Jewish men of Jerusalem---the Saducees, Pharisees, the Sanhedrin.
Of course, it now has the face of a church.  :)

It has been a celebrated spot since the first century, along with the dungeons under the house, and the courtyard above, where Peter denied Christ, even as He was being questioned and beat just steps away.
The dungeon was one of those unexpected places I honestly didn't even know existed, and it hit me hard to see the physical place where Jesus was held, enduring the pain of the whip, but also the pain of the false accusations spit upon him by the very people He came to save.
You could see the cells that were used for many prisoners of the day, as well as the anchors that held their wrists to the walls.
This is the hole where the prisoners would have been literally dropped onto the hard, cold ground of the pit below.
This is what had never hit me before.  I never realized Jesus was held all night in a place like this.  That he was treated like a common prisoner in a common jail.

How had I missed that detail?  I don't know.  But, this was another example of how being here--among these ruins--made a lasting impact on me and changed the way I now see what used to be stories on thin pages of my Bible.

It makes these cobblestone stairs come alive, as He walked in this very place from the Garden of Gethsamane to this place of trial.  From time of prayer with His Father, into the depths of sinfulness that would separate Him from that same Father.  As He stepped into what He knew was NOT the end---but actually the beginning---of Life for all who believe.
Oh, I know.  You thought I was done there.  And, I was, in a way.  That was officially the end of Day Five.

Until this...
After dinner that evening...after what was surely one of the most meaningful spiritual days ever, we got to end it with a Steven Curtis Chapman private concert.

There are just no words.
But, yes, there were tears. (I know you were wondering.  :) )

Steven sang for two hours, going back in history to songs I remember from highschool and college!  And, of course, some current favorites too.  All along the way, he shared his stories of life, which is my favorite part of his concerts.  :)  I'm just so thankful we got to be blessed by his worship this week, and at the same time, tour Israel alongside his family, eating breakfast at the table next to them, chatting here and there, and just getting to know the Chapmans' hearts even more.

Caleb and Will Franklin shared a song from their new album (Colony House) too...I was like the proud aunt they never knew.
And, then Will Franklin's wife, Jillian Edwards, sang a song she wrote for Will for their marriage.  Oh my.  You've got to download her music too.
Every single one of these moments was beautiful, as this family is a living, breathing testimony of what God can do with your brokenness.  They were broken in ways that seemed unrepairable when their daughter and baby sister died.  Yet, here they stand.

And, Mark and I stood with them, praising God for the way He redeems and restores and brings new life, even in the midst of loss and grief.

Thank you, GOD, for this great day!!  (And, that I was able to finish the novel blog about it!)

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